Huê was the former capital of Vietnam. Thanks to the shelling of bombs, it’s a shell of it’s former self. Riina and I ended up spending a day there.
We could see traces of beauty in the city. We walked inside the citadel, which is a basically a city in and of itself, and along the lake. The people were some of the friendliest we had met. Some let us in there homes, which were positively dreadful and made us understand why the food was so cheap. Everyone was smiling. It was the first time we didn’t feel like we had to haggle like hell. Even if they were pocketing a quarter or so extra from us, it’s fine. Let them enjoy it.
I convinced Riina to go to a vegetarian place for dinner and it was amazing. It ended up being vegetarian vietnamese tapas and we feasted for $3 each. Our favorite dish was the tofu and mushrooms in a citronella and pepper sauce. It was absolutely divine — very fresh and full of flavor. A close second was the sautéed aubergines.
However there was just too much working against it. The weather was grey, damp and cloudy. Granted I understand that the majority of people reading this are sitting in a foot of snow or subzero windy weather. But do understand that we have windbreakers, not coats. And flip flops, not uggs. 50/10 is chillllllly.
So after a day in Huê, it was time to go away. Off to Hoi An, a four hour bus ride away with much better weather…
Perhaps because of the warm weather (finally), thebwonderful people we met (foreigners to be honest) or the shopping (heavy suitcase)…. Whatever it was, Hoi An is easily my favorite place we have visited so far. We spent two days there eating, drinking, shopping and lounging on boats. Ahh, what’s not to love by the thought of that?
In hindsight, perhaps we should have visited the touristy destinations that make the city a world heritage site. But really, who has time for that when you can get clothes and shoes customed made for you? Certainly not us. We are now the proud owners of matching custom black pumps and well as several dresses we don’t actually have the space in our luggage for. Riina got a beautiful long silk summer gown and I came away with a smart black business dress as well as an impractical party dress (I couldn’t resist 
. I may have to seek or create an occasion to wear it, but it will be so worth it.
The food in Hoi An was incredible. We went to one restaurant on the waterfront creatively named “Restaurant Cafe 96″ located at 96 Bach Dang (Beach Road). For $11, Riina and I feasted and drank to our heart’s content. Highlights included the fried spring rolls with shrimp and grilled fish with lemongrass and garlic wrapped in a banana leaf.
At the restaurant we met some girls from LA. I think they might have been a little too “peppy” for Riina, but I had fun with them. We all shared an affection for mango mojitos and ended up splurging on $5 ones at the local hot spot. It was nice to be around similar people and talk about New York hotspots (Nicole had lived there for a few years) and be reminded about some of the highlights to look forward to when I return home.
On our second day in Hoi An, we ran into two girls who shared a hostel with us in Huê. We ended up spending the day with them, which included a $3 meal (for all of us) in a local hole-in-the-wall restaurant and a $2.50 hour long boat ride. Hopefully we’ll get to meet up with them later in the trip.
All in all, Hoi An was the perfect relaxing escape from all the action-packed traveling we’ve been doing.
Riina and I were commenting about how lucky we’ve been thus far. Knock on wood, but it’s been an amazing trip. We were smart to travel from north to south, getting the cold out of the way while we were overdosing on adrenaline. The weather, while not perfect, has been fair. Today was the first day of downpour and coincidentally the first time we took a day train.
Next stop: Saigon.
Really don’t have any special comments but just want to say hello. And also want to say LOVE.
Granny